Textiles
GOTS vs OEKO-TEX: What Do They Actually Mean?
Quick answer
GOTS covers the whole supply chain - from organic farming through processing to the finished product, plus labour conditions. OEKO-TEX Standard 100 covers the finished textile only, testing it against a list of restricted substances. GOTS is the broader, stricter claim. OEKO-TEX is a meaningful chemical-safety baseline that's easier and cheaper for manufacturers to achieve.
What each certification actually does
GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard).
- Requires at least 70% certified organic fibres (95%+ for the 'organic' label).
- Restricts processing chemicals, dyes, bleaches and finishes throughout the supply chain.
- Audits social criteria: living wages, no forced labour, freedom of association.
- Every step from farm to finished product is certified.
OEKO-TEX Standard 100.
- Tests the finished textile against limit values for ~1,000 substances.
- Doesn't require organic fibres.
- Doesn't audit farming, processing chemistry or labour conditions.
- Tested by accredited third-party labs.
When each one matters more
Pick GOTS for:
- Baby and children's textiles, where contact is daily and prolonged.
- Anyone caring about supply chain transparency and labour conditions.
- Bedding, towels and underwear, where the textile sits on skin for hours.
OEKO-TEX is enough for:
- Outerwear that doesn't sit on skin.
- Anyone wanting a basic chemical-safety baseline at a lower price point.
- Brands that can't yet hit full GOTS but want a credible third-party claim.
Other certifications worth knowing
- OEKO-TEX Made in Green - Standard 100 plus production-site sustainability audit.
- GOTS organic vs GOTS made with organic - 95%+ vs 70%+ organic fibre.
- Soil Association Organic Textiles - UK certifier equivalent to GOTS.
- Bluesign - chemistry-focused, common in technical and outdoor wear.
Watch out for
- 'Made with organic cotton' without a percentage or certifier - meaningless on its own.
- 'OEKO-TEX' without a Standard 100 certificate number - check the database at oeko-tex.com.
- 'GOTS-inspired' or 'organic-style' - marketing, not certification.
Frequently asked questions
Is GOTS organic always certified by the same body?
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No. GOTS is the standard; certification is done by approved bodies (Soil Association, Control Union, Ecocert and others). The certifier's name and the certificate number should be on the label.
Is OEKO-TEX worthless?
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No - it's a meaningful chemical-safety floor. It just doesn't cover farming or labour, so it's a narrower claim than GOTS.
What about GOTS-certified clothing that's not organic cotton?
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GOTS does cover other natural fibres (wool, hemp, silk) and allows up to 30% non-organic in the 'made with organic' tier. Read the full label rather than the headline.
Last updated
Sources
- Global Organic Textile Standard public criteria document
- OEKO-TEX Standard 100 limit values
- Soil Association textile standards
- ECOCERT certification database